In a surprising move, Olivier Reza, the heir to the renowned French brand known for exceptional colored stones since 1955, has relocated the family business from its traditional home in the Place Vendôme, Paris, to the bustling streets of New York City. This strategic decision has sparked curiosity among industry insiders, who question the implications for the brand's legacy.

However, Reza's transition to New York is integral to his vision of creating a new paradigm for high-end jewelry houses—one that prioritizes gemstone quality while introducing an unprecedented level of transparency and simplified commerce. Departing from the VIP-only appointments, custom orders, and opaque "pricing upon request" practices of the past, Reza now offers a wide range of the company's pieces, priced from $6,000 to $15 million, for sale on its website, worldofreza.com.

"I love New York," exclaims Olivier during an interview at his elegant showroom on Madison Avenue. While acknowledging France's longstanding reputation for craftsmanship, he emphasizes that "New York remains the capital for major stones. Whatever you need, you'll find it here." Olivier's reference to the city's Diamond District, which houses a significant concentration of dealers, underscores the immense potential and opportunities he envisions for his brand.

Olivier Reza's primary objective is to reintroduce and revitalize the 68-year-old family business, which experienced setbacks during his father Alexandre's prolonged battle with dementia. Alexandre's passing in 2016, without leaving a will, resulted in a protracted period of estate management for the family. Eventually, Olivier assumed ownership of the company and made the pivotal decision to relocate it across the Atlantic in 2020.

The brand's website now serves as a comprehensive platform, featuring detailed information on each piece across its extensive collections. Visitors can explore photographs of the jewelry from multiple angles, access pricing details, and even utilize a virtual try-on component. Notably, even pieces priced in the six figures can be purchased online. At present, the costliest item available for purchase on the website is a pair of earrings adorned with 398 diamonds, retailing at $256,000. Olivier's intention was to create an upgraded shopping experience, surpassing the limitations of in-store visits where customers could only try on a limited selection of pieces.

Through its online presence and marketing efforts, Reza showcases men and women donned in denim and sweaters modeling striking necklaces, avant-garde rings, and earrings adorned with over 60 carats of rubies. This intentional choice aims to emphasize that even these extravagant pieces are designed to be worn anywhere, breaking away from the traditional notion of jewelry as solely reserved for special occasions.

Throughout his illustrious career, Alexandre Reza, who began working in his family's gemstone business at the age of 14 and assumed ownership at 18, amassed a vast collection of over 15,000 top-quality gemstones. This impressive assortment includes flawless D color diamonds, rare sapphires, and exceptional emeralds. Jean Ghika, Bonhams' global director of jewelry, highlights Alexandre's pivotal role as a supplier to renowned brands such as Cartier, Harry Winston, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Ghika notes that Alexandre possessed unparalleled expertise in the postwar era, extending into the '80s and '90s, and was entrusted with some of the most extraordinary stones on the market.

Among Alexandre's notable designs, the Ruban collection stands out, featuring swirling metalwork and gemstones reminiscent of ribbon curls. This iconic collection has graced the red carpets, adorning celebrities like Rihanna. Olivier also seeks to revive his father's Farandole design, created four decades ago, which features gemstone beads embellished with diamonds.

Gemstones remain at the core of the Reza brand, setting it apart from other jewelers who often conceal flaws to highlight the stones' beauty. Olivier takes a different approach, leveraging the exceptional quality of the material to showcase nearly the entire gemstone. A prime example of this sculptural approach is the brand's A ring, ingeniously designed to reveal a significant portion of the diamond, seemingly held in place through a magical interplay of white gold bands.

With his father's extensive library of gemstones at his disposal, Olivier possesses a rare opportunity to recut the stones, enhancing their color and quality. While many gemstones are typically cut to maximize their weight, often at the expense of ideal color and shape, Olivier's discerning eye allows him to unlock their true potential. "We spend a lot of time recutting stones to perfect them," he explains, "which also allows us, designwise, the ability to show most of their body without anything to hide."

Olivier presents a stunning example of this approach, showcasing a resplendent yellow sapphire that he personally recut. The sapphire now shimmers like a fancy-colored diamond, having shed 71 carats—a loss most manufacturers would consider unthinkable. However, the final result is a breathtaking 126.57-carat stone, now adorning a necklace worth $12 million, which surpasses the original gemstone both in beauty and value.

In his newfound home of New York, Olivier Reza exhibits a willingness to be patient and play the long game. Establishing trust with clients and familiarizing them with a relatively unfamiliar brand can be a time-consuming process. However, Reza's innovative approach, featuring extensive online showcases of the brand's collections, has the potential to expedite this timeline and instill confidence. Ultimately, Olivier aspires to witness a day when clients purchase seven-figure pieces online and unabashedly wear them during their routine grocery store visits, exemplifying the brand's fusion of opulence and everyday luxury.

Sources: https://www.google.com/url?rct=j&sa=t&url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2023-07-14/jeweler-reza-has-a-new-e-commerce-strategy-to-sell-huge-gemstones-online&ct=ga&cd=CAIyGmJkYTg4Mzc4ZWQwMWM4ZDQ6Y29tOmVuOlVT&usg=AOvVaw0Ud4ttDIhkzwRG8S7tOVzl